Father’s Day: The Steward Spirit

Kurtis Loftus and I are 10 episodes deep into our KNOT Strong podcast, and last weekend we did a special Father’s Day show, in which our daughters (we each have two) made special appearances. It was one of my favorite casts yet. Check it out and if you enjoy the show, subscribe to our YouTube channel. We’re doing one show per week! Let us know what you think!

I Did a Thing… Introducing the KNOT Strong Podcast

I wanted to share a new project I’ve been working on—a podcast. A few months ago, my friend, Kurtis Loftus reached out with a “wild idea” to start a show focused on men’s mental, physical, and spiritual well-being.

For those who don’t know him, Kurtis is an accomplished creative—a former marketing firm owner, endurance athlete & two-time world-record-holding surfer, and founder of Jacksonville Beach’s “Deck the Chairs” event and arts program. He’s also a Christian and longtime mentor in recovery.

Kurtis and I share a lot—surfing, faith, creativity, and, most recently, cancer. He’s been fighting (and winning) a battle with stage 3 prostate cancer while I’ve been on my own journey, and that connection led us to co-host this podcast together. We’re diving into topics like perseverance, fear, love, motivation, and the human spirit.

Episodes are about 45 minutes long, and we’re planning to start bringing on guests soon, experts and other men with their own stories. We’re not doing it for money—just hoping it helps even one person who might need it. You can check it out here, below (this particular episode dives into my cancer experience): If it resonates, feel free to subscribe.

My Ultimate Explorer Journey Ends One Round Short of the Final

Friends, I regret to share that my journey in Outside Magazine’s Ultimate Explorer competition ended one round short of the Final last Thursday. I placed 4th in my Semifinal Group despite the incredible support from all of you and giving it my all. Gretchen and I are truly amazed and humbled by how many of you worked so hard to take me from 80,000 competitors to the final 64—and almost to the final eight! Just realizing that we have so many people who love and care for us– friends and family who would commit so much to try and will us to victory, means more to us than winning ever could.

We are deeply grateful to everyone who invested their time, energy and resources to help us. Know that all donations were directed to the National Parks Foundation, as worthy an organization as you will find, and one that happens to be in serious need now.

We also want to thank all of you who’ve supported us throughout my healthcare journey this year in so many practical and encouraging ways. Please continue sending your prayers—this is a challenge that I am winning, one in which I will prevail.

I entered this competition as an idea for how Gretchen and our family might celebrate the end of my chemo treatment in December and our 30th Anniversary in May. Rest assured, we still intend to commemorate these milestones in a very special way. This year has been unforgettable for so many reasons, and we’re so grateful to have all of you by our side this entire time.

Almost There – Top 5!

I received confirmation on Thursday that I had made it into the Top 5 in my Group in Outside Magazine’s Ultimate Explorer competition and I’m still leading my Group. If I maintain the lead and win it this week, then I move on to the Quarters against other Group Winners on Sept. 23rd. The votes reset at that time as they do for the Semis and Final from Sept. 23rd – Oct. 17th.

Thank you, again, EVERYONE, for your overwhelming support! Here’s the link if you’d like to vote for me (still free, every day) or just to follow my progress: https://ultexplorer.org/2024/tim-hamby-yIWY. As I‘ve maintained, there’s an option to purchase “extra” votes with funds going to the National Parks Foundation (it’s a fundraiser for them), but don’t feel like you have to do that for me (only if you have a heart for NPF!). Also– if you do wish to contribute, then it is probably best to hold off until Sept. 23rd or the two weeks following when the votes reset for each of the final three rounds. It is also always best to wait for one of the many days when “purchased” votes are 2 for 1.

Thanks so much again, all! – T&G

TOP 15 – Movin’ On!

TOP 15 – MOVING ON! THANK YOU, AGAIN, FRIENDS! – Gretchen and I want to extend our heartfelt appreciation for all of our friends and family who have propelled me to first place in my Group in Outside Magazine’s “Ultimate Explorer” contest.  Thank you for voting, re-voting (you can vote again every 24 hours), and sharing my profile (https://ultexplorer.org/2024/tim-hamby-yIWY). Some of you have even generously purchased votes (funds go to the National Parks Foundation). 

I wanted to share a little insight on how the contest works.  Each week, the 5 competitors in each Group with the lowest votes are eliminated.  The rest move on until there is only one competitor left in each Group.  The winner in each Group (along with a wildcard winner) advance to Quarterfinal Groups where the VOTES RESET!  Top competitors in each Group advance to Semifinals. VOTES RESET! Top Semifinal from each Group advance to Finals.  VOTES RESET! Grand Prize Winner is determined October 17th. I’m in a great position now, but the competition heats up as we approach the Quarterfinals on September 23rd, when votes reset.  Each time the votes reset, things get more challenging.  So, if you’re feeling like you’d like to contribute, then Sept. 23 – Oct. 17 would be the best time for that. But we appreciate all of your votes, time and energy!

Ultimate Explorer Update 8-24-24: I’ve Advanced to Round 2!

Friends,

THANK YOU, THANK YOU! IT’S OFFICIAL!

Round 1 of Outside Magazine’s “Ultimate Explorer” contest concluded yesterday, and I finished in first place in my group of 107 competitors! Gretchen & I want to thank everyone who took the time to vote and re-vote for us (you can vote again every 24 hours); who shared my profile (https://ultexplorer.org/2024/tim-hamby-yIWY); and those who did exactly what I asked them not to do– buy us extra votes! (You guys are nuts!). That said, I’m sure the National Parks Foundation appreciates it as much as we do, as the whole thing is a fundraiser for them.

My next challenge is to try and continue to hold my lead against the 20 others who advanced from my group. There’s a couple of more rounds to go, and near the end, votes reset. So, Gretchen and I would just humbly ask that you continue to re-vote for us to win this dream vacation as often as you think about it. Thanks again, everyone for your love and support! We are so excited to be in the running to potentially win this!

Help Me Win “The Ultimate Explorer” With Your Vote!

Friends,

My wife, Gretchen and I would like to ask you for a HUGE favor! Will you vote for us to win $10,000 and a national parks expedition in a Winnebago RV in Outside Magazine’s “Ultimate Explorer” contest! The National Parks Foundation, Coca-Cola and Nature’s Valley area also sponsors. It’s a straightforward competition. The person with the most votes wins! You can vote EVERY DAY! There’s an option to buy votes, but please do not do that. Simply clicking and voting whenever you happen to think about us, is all we are asking. I’d like to take Gretchen on this trip for her irreplaceable role in helping me with my battle against cancer this year, and in celebration of our 30th anniversary coming in May.

As people who know me understand, I’m an outdoors addict. I’ve already made it through the application part of this contest, and am competing against a group of 107 in Rd. 1, so am off to a great start, but will no doubt need the help of friends / family to get enough votes to defeat some “outdoor influencers”. But I’ve always believed “You don’t know ‘till you go!”, so give us a click(s) and a vote, and wish us luck! Thank you so much for any time you take to do this. Here is my profile link: Here’s my profile link: https://ultexplorer.org/2024/tim-hamby-yIWY

Health News – Alive & Kicking

Recently (on June 15, 2024 – International Surf Day), I shared some news on my Instagram about my health. It had been 5 months since I had set foot in the ocean, and I wanted to offer an explanation and why my posting had slowed considerably since that time. Now that the news is out, I thought I probably needed to say something about it here, as well.


In February, I was diagnosed with stage-4 colon cancer. I’ve always enjoyed perfect health, then last August began having very unusual headaches. I went to the doctor and learned that my blood pressure was sky-high. Another test showed abnormal kidney scores. The doctors assumed this might be due to my heart. After many tests, they determined that my heart was extremely strong and that there were no circulatory or blockage issues; so they deemed it hypertension (which I thought was weird, because I’m not a high-stress guy).

They tried to control it with medication for months, to no avail. Finally, they took a closer look at my kidneys, and after viewing the test results, the cardiologist called me at home on a Sunday evening and told me to go to the ER, as I was nearing stage 4 kidney failure. As it turns out, there was cancer behind my abdominal wall, impeding some of my urological function. My kidneys were working fine, but the blockage was preventing everything to drain out completely, and little by little, it was backing up into my kidneys, damaging them. I ended up spending 27 days in the hospital from mid-February to mid-April. It was grueling. I had a stent placed in one kidney, which was subsequently removed, but now I have two temporary nephrostomy tubes that I will likely need to continue to use until late summer, keeping me out of the water until that time.

The specific cancer I have was determined not to be genetic in nature or due to any kind of faulty gene or familial pre-disposition (great news for my daughters), but rather from an external source, so it could be anything. I’ve always taken care of my yard with chemicals, had a side-gig doing epoxy garage floors, took three rounds of the (Pfizer) Covid vaccine, and of course, PFAS are everywhere, so it’s just hard to say where it came from and it really doesn’t matter. 

It is a very aggressive cancer, but its aggressiveness also makes it a great candidate for chemo. I am about to hit my 4th of 8 rounds, and am doing ok. I’ve lost 15+ pounds mostly due to the initial hospital stay.

They say this cancer is not curable, but manageable with chemo, for years. They approximated 5, although, because I am otherwise “young and healthy”, perhaps I could do better than that, and said there’s always a 1% chance of a miracle or other unknown. I say God is the only person who can put a timeline on my life and I fully expect Him to heal me completely. I have an incredible support network of family, friends and church, and especially my wife, Gretchen, who I could never navigate this without (God bless her!), and despite the shock of this all, I feel very blessed and nothing but gratitude.

I have chosen to avoid talking about this on my social channels beyond a basic explanation. I have a page on caringbridge.org for anyone who wants to follow my progress or hear more details. I won’t allow myself to be defined by cancer, this year, or any other. I have no fear of death, I never have,  and I am not putting any limits on my ability to overcome this. My intent is to keep going about the routine of my life in the ways I always have with perseverance, optimism and faith. I have already had a long life full of joy- one I intend to keep living and experiencing to the max, according to God’s plan for me.

I have always understood that life can, and does change on a dime, so while I am really surprised by all of this, I understand that’s how it goes sometimes. This is just like any other challenge or adversity that we all face at different times in our lives (and I’ve faced my fair share). They are experiences that help us grow, and make us stronger.

Times like these, while unfortunate and uncomfortable are actually rare moments of opportunity to demonstrate our true faith, and I believe in seizing on those. I’m on a positive path forward. I’m not looking behind, only ahead and looking forward to getting back into the ocean before the end of the year. Trust that I am still alive & kicking an plan to be out in the water again by Fall! Here’s some throwback pics to celebrate International Surfing day and a recent (mid-May) pic from my b-day ( it was a big ‘un, ya’ll!)

Peace, Love & Blessings!

Fall Surf: Half-Day Off Friday!

I had a half-day off this past Friday and it was a great day to take it… a beautiful gray, fall morning with only one other person out! The sun popped out at around noon, just before I got out. I couldn’t find a barrel that stayed open, but there were a few fun ones out there, anyway!

Skating Sugar Mountain

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CwQ6qKDM1nS/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

(You can click on the link above to see our fun Sugar Mountain skating video)

This past August, I went up to visit some buddies that I’ve known since elementary/middle school – just a great group of friends! We spent 4 days at the very top of Sugar Mountain where one of the guys has a place.

There are two things you do on mountains when there’s no snow:

You climb up them … and you skate down them.

This probably wasn’t the smartest thing we did during our meet-up, but when you get together a bunch of old guys swapping stories about their youthful stupidity until late at night, you can bet that the very next morning, they’ll be up bright and early doing things just as unwise to prove that their best days are not behind them! 😂 Good times! No broken bones, car crashes or life flights off the side of mountains were required! 😂

I took a shot at the end holding my iPhone to show you what we were seeing, which was a little tricky, trying to pay attention to the road and not look at the phone while holding it up properly. Surfing on most days is a safer bet!

More of This, Please

A GoPro shot from last summer… We made it through the June gloom and are now slogging through the typical July summer doldrums here in Florida. Thankfully, the heart of storm season, the best time to surf in Florida – late summer and early fall, are almost here! It’s been flat for way too long and I am just dying to catch some good waves. Pray for surf!

Charleston, SC Getaway

My wife and I recently took a quick little trip up to Charleston, SC for my birthday! We bought tickets to see one of our favorite old bands – the Hoodoo Gurus, an Australian surf rock band. As luck would have it, Gretcehn’s aunt and uncle had recently bought a place up that way, and let us stay there. It was so beautiful! We had never been to Charleston and didn’t realize how (relatively) close it was – about 4 hours from Jax. It’s an awesome town, and we had a blast! We also went to Folly Beach (see next post). If you haven’t been to Charleston, put it on your to-visit list!!! Amazing food, beautiful historic architecture and laid-back people. It’s kind of like an upscale St. Augustine. Here’s some pics from the trip!

Billy Idol at the St. Augustine AMP

This empty nest stuff is turning out to be pretty fun! My wife and I are nearing the end of taking in 4 concerts in one month! We caught the return of our favorite Reggae artist, Mystic Dino and the Blazin’ Posse at Prohibition Kitchen in St. Augustine, FL a couple of weeks ago; then enjoyed VIP tix (Thank you, Darrell Chapman) to the Roscolusa Songwriters festival, held with 5,000 our closest friends in Nocatee last Saturday; then saw the one and only Billy Idol at the AMP in St. Augustine this past Tuesday night; and are rounding out our tour by heading up to Charleston, SC to see one of my all-time favorite Australian surf bands, the Hoodoo Gurus this coming Monday. The ringing in my ears is getting a little louder, but we’re having a lot of fun!

Here are some videos from Billy Idol’s show. I’ll post his opening number (Dancing with Myself), one from the middle of the show (Rebel Yell) and his closing segment, White Wedding. Billy was as good (and rebellious) and energetic as ever! Still sneering, fist-pumping and stripping off shirt deep into his 60s, proving one again that age is really an attitude! His voice sounded great, and the crowd was into it!

Date Night! Woot!

Surfing Hurricane Fiona in Brevard County

In late September, we enjoyed a great stretch of surf during Hurricanes Danielle, Earl and Fiona. On one of the last days of the Fiona swell when the winds were set to be onshore here in NEFl, I made plans to head down to Brevard County (Cocoa / Sattelite Beach) area where the winds were expected to be offshore. This is the area where I spent much of time surfing while finishing school at UCF in the early 90s. It is one of my favorite places to surf and gets such great waves! In addition, I was able to catch up with two old friends, Mike Johnson and Mike Wilhite who both live or have places down there. Mike J. has a great break right behind his condo and that’s where we surfed. My buddy from work, Luis Sandoval joined me for the trip and what a great time we had. The waves were epic and the crowds, light! The winds were offshore, as expected and it was sloppy and onshore back at home. Successful strike mission. We scored! Here’s a few shots from that day.

Hurricane Earl Surfing, Ponte Vedra Beach

I was super stoked to finally get a proper hurricane swell about three weeks ago. It had been so long! Too long! I was able to catch parts of 5 of the 8 days of that Hurricanes Earl and Danielle were gifting us and enjoyed a couple of really fun sessions with my buddies Aaron and Ryan inside Guana State Park in Ponte Vedra Beach. I took the GoPro out or “Super Tuesday” during Earl. Here’s a few pics from the morning and the afternoon that day.

Changing Conditions

 

Photo, courtesy of Pat "Tupat" Eichstaedt
Photo, courtesy of Pat “Tupat” Eichstaedt

Author’s note: This is a story I originally wrote for The Inertia, billed as, “surfing’s definitive online community featuring news, opinions, photography, videos and art from many of surfing’s most talented figures.” 

Transformation, reinvention and evolution are rarely easy. Yet they are a part of life as ancient as the ocean and constant as her rhythms. Life is a series of crests and valleys. And our conditions are ever-changing. When we embrace the concept of evolution, we not only learn to roll with life’s changes, we begin to recognize the opportunities they present. At the very least, we overcome our fears of them. I know because I was forced to evolve following a sudden, deep and unexpected period of change in my life recently. And turning back wasn’t an option.

I’m sharing my story for a few reasons: One was a remarkably timely email that I received from The Inertia a few weeks ago, informing me of some changes coming to their website. The note also asked if I might consider writing about a “significant moment of change” in my own life, something that led to “personal growth and transformation” in conjunction with their re-launch. “Ideally,” the email read, “it could relate to surfing, but also just to life in general.”

My experience certainly relates to, “life in general,” and, as for “surfing,” to me those two things are inseparable. After God, family and friends, surfing has probably been the most significant influence in my life since first standing up on a wave at age 15. Most major decisions I’ve made in my life – where I’ve lived, who I married, how I’ve spent my time and money, have almost always been linked to surfing in one way or another. Isn’t that the all-consuming nature of the sport (activity) that so many of us have freely surrendered to?

Interesting is the role that The Inertia itself played during my period of evolution. I don’t even know if Zach, Alex, Ted or anyone else was aware. Another reason I thought it an ideal time to share. Most importantly, I thought there might be others out there navigating similar times of unexpected change in their own lives who could find some value or encouragement in my experiences.

My “transformation” began in late 2007 when the collapse of the housing market struck a devastating, and ultimately fatal, blow to my 11-year old real estate marketing firm. The business I had launched with one friend out of a small apartment a decade earlier had grown into a 27-person, full-service integrated marketing agency doing about $5 million-a-year, every year.

Until the housing bubble burst.

Understand that there’s a reason people use this specific language when talking about sudden market collapses. When “bubbles burst,” by definition, they cease to existAnd that’s exactly what happened to our industry and our business. One day, we were working 20 or so large accounts. Then, seemingly overnight, all new development just… stopped.

All of it.

The next four years would become a steady series of layoffs of people I considered family, and for whom I felt responsible in much the same way. I delayed every cut for as long as I could while methodically feeding the company with all of the resources my wife and I had worked hard to accumulate over 15 years of marriage.

We liquidated our savings.

Our real estate investments.

Our 401K’s.

And finally, our home, which we were forced to sell to tap its equity. Thank God it sold when it did, or the bank may well have taken it from us.

Now, I have never been materialistic and can be as happy with nothing as I can with abundance. But, the fact was that my life had turned upside down, and the changes were painful. The home my wife and I had built eight years earlier was located directly across the street from the ocean with private access to a beautiful empty beach, with three extremely consistent sandbars within 150 yards of each other. For years, I could walk right out my front door and go surf anytime I felt like it.

As owner of my own business, I rarely missed a swell.

When my boards lost their pop, I ordered new ones.

And I traveled… Puerto Rico, Hawaii, Barbados, The Dominican Republic, Mexico (Mainland and Baja), Costa Rica (over and over), the Bahamas (over and over). But those days had come to an end.

Breaking down our 10,000 s.f. office was physically and emotionally grueling. My partners and I had invested $425,000 building it out to create a one-of-a-kind environment. Now I was selling designer furniture and high tech equipment for next to nothing on Craigslist.

I remember a revelation I had when boxing literally hundreds of local, regional and national awards we had won over the years for just about every creative marketing and design category you could imagine.

You know the saying, “You can’t take it with you?” I get that now. At the end of the day, what value do these things really hold? I wondered then, and do still today, if Kelly Slater feels the same way about his collection of awards which must certainly far outnumber those we had accumulated. I have to believe that he must.

Still, stubbornly, I packed every last one of them with care, lugging five God-awful heavy boxes home with me. My justification: this was for my daughters – so that one day in the future they might pull these things down from the attic, brush off the dust and discover, “Damn – Dad was pretty good.”

A few weeks later, I reconsidered.

I realized that my daughters already know exactly who I am, and everything that is truly “important” about me, and to me. My values. My beliefs. The things I feel are important to stand up for. And what they might understand or think about my professional accomplishments one day in the future… well, that’s the last thing I’d ever really care about. Even at the pinnacle of my career, my work never defined me.

And it never will.

And I hope the same is true for them.

Following the four-year unwinding of my business, I spent the next full year trying to figure out, “What next?” By now, the rest of the country was gripped in the recession, and I was on the front lines with millions of others trying to find a job.

My circumstances were less than ideal. If you think it’s tough trying to find a solid job out of college, try doing it when you’re 40-something with an extensive resume, a reputation as a “specialist,” and you’re a life-long entrepreneur. Employers interpret this as “expensive,” “one-trick pony” and a guy who “can’t work for others,” regardless of what the truth may be.

The one thing that was genuinely vexing, however, was that I didn’t know what I wanted to do. I had been doing the same thing for 15 years and that industry was now dormant. This is when I really began to embrace the idea of “transformation” and the opportunities it presented.

While a significant chapter of my life seemed to have simply vanished into thin air, I couldn’t repress my inner desire to get on with something new– to dedicate my considerable experience and passions to new challenges, whatever lied ahead. It was the feeling you get when paddling into large surf you’re not certain you’re equipped to handle, but that you’re committed to dropping in no matter what – a mix of nerves, fear, anticipation and excitement. During this time, I continued to rely upon those same foundations I always had during challenging times in my life – God. Family. Friends…

…and surfing.

Yes, my travels had come to a halt about three years earlier. But during my year of career transition, I had plenty of time to get out in the water, and I did. Often. I used this time to try and decompress, focus my thoughts and figure out exactly what it was I wanted to do. I also began teaching my 9-year-old daughter how to surf. I relished the opportunity to share time with her in the ocean for that entire year, and I would never give one second of that time back. Those are days I will never, ever forget.

To keep my creative metabolism flowing, I began to write more and, in late 2011, stumbled upon The Inertia. I loved the website, admired Zach’s vision and reading posts from so many intelligent writers and surfers on subjects that weren’t being addressed in the mainstream print surf pubs.

I submitted a few of my own articles and received an incredibly warm reply. Before I knew it, my first piece was published. By coincidence, happened to share the home page with Kelly Slater’s first post to the site, lending a high number of views to my own article and a great response as a result. This would happen again just a few weeks later.

These were comforting distractions during otherwise stressful days. For a time, I considered transitioning into the surf industry full-time. But ultimately, I wasn’t ready to relocate to Orange County to try and do it. With limited resources and a family to support, the risks just didn’t make sense.

Instead, after months of searching and sending resumes into the black hole of online recruiting sites, I came across a notice for a position that perfectly suited my experience and passions for surfing, travel and marketing. The Southeast Volusia Advertising Authority needed an Executive Director to lead tourism marketing for New Smyrna Beach and the surrounding area. New Smyrna may be the most consistent break on the east coast and I knew it well because I had spent much time surfing there while finishing college at the University of Central Florida. I applied for the position, made the list of finalists, and eventually won the job.

I then began commuting to work from my home in Ponte Vedra Beach– 90 minutes each way, every day. While this was less than ideal, I was ecstatic just to be working again in a role I was perfectly suited for.

Not long after starting, I realized that our office needed a content producer – a photographer/cinematographer who could capture New Smyrna in the way I knew it needed to be represented: beautifully honest. Unpretentious. Pure and real. One of my team members suggested long-time local Patrick Eichstaedt. The name sounded familiar, but I couldn’t quite place it. “You probably know him,” she said. “He surfs. And, he writes for that same website you do – The Inertia. But, he goes by the name ‘Tupat.’”

“Ah, Tupat!” Yes, I knew Tupat, who was an active contributor not only forThe InertiaSurflineESM and others but who had worked for …Lost Enterprises for many years. I asked him to come in and ended up hiring him to help with our NSB re-branding efforts. Tupat would pull in local surfing icons like Shea Lopez, Lindsay Perry and others who graciously helped us create a series of marketing videos and other promotions.

During this same time, I conceptualized a new events festival for NSB I called, “Beach Weeks.” It would consist of seven straight weeks of coastal-themed events incorporating new events with existing ones in early summer. Beach Weeks included surfing and SUP contests, Reggae and Blues festivals, fishing tournaments, movie nights and many family-friendly events. We even brought Bethany Hamilton to town to help kick things off. The festival was a hit and Beach Weeks since expanded to include both Summer and Fall versions.

Although my fortunes had turned and I was doing something I loved, my transition was not yet complete. The commute had begun to wear upon me. I was rarely home for dinner with my family and we realized if I was going to stay, that we’d have to relocate. As much as I love New Smyrna, I am a third-generation native of Jacksonville, Florida, and our city has a lot going on in its own right. The surf scene is thriving from St. Augustine to Jax Beach and the home we were living in (and still do now), while far more modest than our last one, was still within walking distance of one of our area’s best breaks. My kids enjoy great schools and all of their friends, and so many of my own, are here.

As decision time approached, I was contacted by a former employee of my agency, who began recruiting me to come back to Jax for a position at a large public tech company where she was now working. The role: Director of Social Media sounded interesting and I was only weeks from having to make a decision on moving prior to the start of a new school year.

I live by the motto, “You don’t know until you go” and so decided to investigate it further. The more I learned, the more appealing the thought became. No moving. Short commute. Better hours. Better compensation. Better benefits. This included generous stock options – the type of benefit that, more than just a good salary, can truly help to build long-term financial stability. The perfect fit for someone starting over on rebuilding their retirement.

I accepted the job.

Looking back today, I am at peace with the changes that occurred in my life. I’ve continued to grow personally and professionally. I’m thankful for the time I was able to spend in New Smyrna Beach and stoked to see the programs we put into place there, producing positive results for the area. I’m grateful for the full year I was able to surf with my daughter, and for the fact that after 15 years, I was able to try something brand new with my career.

For those who might be going through similar periods of change, I would encourage you to never give up, never lose hope and never lose confidence in your own abilities. Recognize that no matter your circumstances in life, there are always countless numbers of people navigating greater challenges than your own. I reminded myself of this fact every day during my period of transition and never fell into the trap of feeling sorry for myself. Recognize that life truly is a series of ups, downs and changing conditions. Embrace those changes and enjoy the ride. Remember that it is always the most difficult conditions that provide us the greatest opportunities to learn, grow and evolve, and facing them that provides our highest levels of joy and satisfaction.

 

 

Guana River State Park

Guana River State Park
Guana River State ParkGuana River State Park

Guana River State Park between Jacksonville, FL and St. AugustineGuana River State Park ocean side, between Jacksonville, FL and St. Augustine

Above are a few images of 12,000-acre Guana River State Park in the Greater Jacksonville, FL area, between Ponte Vedra Beach and St. Augustine. Even on a cold winter day in December, her beauty shines through. The park runs from the Atlantic Ocean, across dunes, marsh and over to the Tolomato River. The place is gorgeous, loaded with hiking and biking trails, and lots of wildlife (bird sanctuary, calving ground for Right Whales, among many other species). I asked my wife to marry me here at the northern entrance to the park. I love to surf at Guana because it breaks well, handles larger swells better than most places around here, and is typically uncrowded. Gretchen thought that I was stopping to check the surf on the way out to eat one evening when I popped the question to her on top of the highest observation deck in the park. We later built a home right on the edge of the marsh in Guana and lived there for about 12 years or so. We ended up moving, but not too far- just about mile down the road off A1A. Guana River State Park is an excellent place to run, surf, fish, kayak, hike, bike, look for sharks teeth, or just explore and relax. If you’re looking for something to do in the Jax area one weekend, try to check it out. There’s also a great research center with some pretty cool displays at the southern entrance near Vilano Beach.

The Huntington Beach Riots: Stop Blaming Surfing

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x926wkx6lL8

I’ve written this article in part as a response to some of the commentary floating around seeking to pin the blame for the Huntington Beach riots on Big Surfing. While my primary goal is not necessarily to defend the industry (in which I am not employed, but inherently support in many ways), I do wish to make a point that I feel is irrefutable, and meriting of much greater reflection by surfers and non-surfers alike. The point being that the “culpability” story here is not (as much of the discussion has revolved around), “real surfers” vs. “posers”; “enlightened surfers” vs. Big Surfing; the “old HB” vs. the “new HB”; or the “909s” vs. the “714s”. Rather, the events of that day were just one more example of a society in decline, generally. A rather benign case, at that.

If, as some have said, the US Open is a mirror for the industry, then the industry is a mirror for culture. And while much of the industry regularly engages in lamentable practices (the objectification of women and over-pandering to youth chief among them), they are but bit players in a much larger production. Rather than simply shaking our fists at Vans, Quiksilver or the ASP, we (not just as a surfing community, but a nation), need to be reflecting more on the subjects of strong families, good parenting, individual responsibility, and respect for self and others.

Big Media, Hollywood and some large corporations may be rocks to look under, but eroding morals, irresponsible parenting and a number of troubling consumer, technological and socio-economic trends are much of what lies beneath them. At the root of it all is good old human selfishness. We have become a “me first”, “me last”, “look at me” society that increasingly puts our own self-satisfaction before nearly everything and everyone else around us, including in the case of many parents– our own children. And the results are playing out all over.

 Huntington Beach, you’re not that special.

You may be surprised to learn that Huntington is not the only beach town where summer festivals mixed with raucous crowds, erupted into violence that embarrassed many locals and city officials. Just two-and-a half months ago, we here in Jacksonville Beach experienced a similar event as the Huntington riots over Memorial Day weekend. And while a surf contest was planned for that day, the ASP wasn’t here. Nor were Vans or Quiksilver. Can you believe it?

The event, ceremoniously documented on YouTube, generated much unwanted attention. Port-o-potties weren’t overturned, but one brawler was critically injured. There were two fights involving 10-15 males, most in their late teens and early twenties.

Heated discussions followed about, “Beachies” vs. “Townies”, racism, alcohol and gangs. In Huntington Beach, the perpetrators were cited as, “White and Latino trash”; here, as “Black trash”. How about, let’s put all the trash in one can. Then, let’s consider just how much the problems at either event, particularly the US Open, really had to do with surfers, surfing or surf cities.

I think we’re missing the point…

We’re living in a day and age where people are dressing up like clowns and gunning down movie-goers in theaters; where others are snuffing kindergartners; and still others driving over people on our boardwalks. Kidnapping women for use as personal sex slaves and locking kids in cages are also trending.

But who can blame the crazies?

We’re infatuated with video games like, “Grand Theft Auto”, “Call of Duty” and “Gears of War”. Television offers us the sad materialism and celebrity-worship of The Real Housewives and The Kardashians. And an endless variety of crime shows compete with one another to see who can showcase the most shocking violence and graphic sex in prime time.

If you’re still gainfully employed and fortunate enough to be able to afford the luxury of HBO, you might have caught this year’s most acclaimed television moment: the 8-minute “Red Wedding” slaughter scene from Game of Thrones where every member of a wedding party was slashed to death in beautiful HD glory, including one pregnant woman. Make sure we see the baby in her belly get stabbed a few times! For God’s sake, someone get the producers an Emmy!

Meanwhile, we’re all too absorbed in our own self-gratification to care much about what our kids are doing. “Go watch tv in your own room, honey, TMZ is on!”  “Ok, mom (assumes dad bailed the family long ago), I’ll Kik / Snapchat / Ask / Vine / Chat Roulette or otherwise just Google some stranger to pay attention to me instead, because I quite literally crave any kind of attention, you know?”

While advances in technology like mobile devices and social media have played a critically important role in connecting us and giving voice to many in the world who could use one; they have also spawned a generation of narcissists who have fooled themselves into believing that the rest of us want to see one more of their idiotic “selfies”. In my opinion, the saddest part of the Huntington Beach riot videos was the sight of nearly every human being present holding up a camera phone to record the event so that they’d be able to capture and share video of the pandemonium with their friends, who in turn would no doubt be impressed that they were a part of the pathetic scene.

The dumbing down of America continues to happen right in front of us and it is spreading like a viral video. Growing poverty rates, unemployment, fractured families and under-education seem to be leading many, especially the young, to lash out in anger, increasingly asserting themselves violently, or just stupidly.

On the flipside, many of the more privileged in our society, despite seeming to have nearly everything they could possibly need to succeed, also seem to lack the one thing that apparently, everyone is having trouble finding: a moral center.

This pains me to write because I am a positive, hopeful, optimistic person by nature. And I can’t really offer a solution other than to suggest that we probably all need to look within ourselves to find the answers by examining our own personal values, and how we choose to live those on a daily basis.

But I do know this: what happened in Huntington Beach wasn’t just about Big Surfing. It was about something much larger.

More Beach Weeks Results News

8/6/2013 Update on Beach Weeks... I was informed today by my former Operations Manager that Southeast Volusia County’s bed-tax collections for the month of June, 2013- the primary month that Beach Weeks took place – was $158,000 – the highest amount for this traditionally slow month in a decade (since the 2003 fiscal year!) GREAT results that should ensure the future of “Beach Weeks” for a long time to come, and a rewarding acknowledgement for a lot of hard work! Big shoutouts to my former SVAA Team Members including the Board of Directors, who trusted me enough to approve my recommended funding for this concept;  Frank DeMarchi of Black Crow Productions, who spearheaded production and without whom it would never  have occurred; Former Chairman of the SVAA Board, David Kosmas, who challenged me to make it happen this year, despite a short timetable; Liz Yancey, who helped steer some of the events/production and Elizabeth Gifford, who helped drive planning, budgeting and marketing from beginning to end. Thanks also to Sherry Hendershot, Myriah Chandler and Bobbie Clemente for all of their administrative and design work that went into this, and to Doug Garrison and Ed Bondi for their initial branding concepts! May Beach Weeks become a “can’t miss” annual event for Southeast Volusia County for years to come!


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