A friend of mine just shared this winning video of Matt Meola from the much-heralded Innersection.tv contest and I, in turn, am sharing it here with you. This spot was filmed and directed by Elliot Leboe of ACL Digital Cinema. Beautiful work, amazing surfing. Mindblowing.
Archive for category: Surfing
I’m a big fan of professional surfing and follow the ASP World Tour pretty closely each year. I love to watch the world’s best surfers on the world’s best waves and end up watching most of the contests online. A few years ago, Action Sports Group, the media company behind Surfer, Surfing, Snowboarder, Powder, Bike, Skateboarder and several other great media titles, started an online fantasy surf league called Fantasysurfer.com. The object of Fantasy Surfer is to utilize a $50 million payroll to build a team of 8 surfers for each contest, choosing from the 40 -50 entrants for each World Tour event.
I’ve done pretty well each year that I’ve played and don’t think I’ve ever finished below the top 90% of all players. This year, I almost won the thing. Check out the stats from my team’s (Rightcoastrules) screenshot from the final event, the Pipeline Masters in Hawaii, which commenced on Dec. 16th, 2010. There were 94,199 total registered users, most of whom dropped out at some point during the year. There were 16,866 active users who actively played all year for the title. I came in 195th. That’s the top 99.99% of all active players!
Johnny Correll, a surfer and IT administrator from Virginia Beach was this year’s winner. The Grand Prize that I almost won that Johnny will now be enjoying was a nine day trip for two to the Nemberala Beach Resort in Indonesia with all expenses paid! Dammmmmmmmmm youuuuuuuuuuuuu Johnnnnnnnnyyyyyyyyyyyy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! There, I feel better.
An interesting note: Take a look at my last team lineup to see an example of my maddening mix of brilliance and careless oversight.
As you can see, I had actually selected the event’s eventual winner, France’s Jeremy Flores. I doubt there were many who made this same call. Jeremy is a solid mid-level guy, really skilled in most kinds of surf, though not exactly known for his big wave surfing in Hawaii. On the other hand, you can see that I also had Andy Irons on my team. As most in the surf world know, Andy had passed away tragically from a serious illness just weeks earlier. In fact, the entire event was dedicated to his memory.
I still had $2 million available to pick up one surfer, which generally affords you a wild card entry, usually a local talent from the area that is hosting the event. In Hawaii, the wildcards are usually pretty good and legitimated threats. I had been using Andy as a placeholder on my team as a sort of tribute to him, and had intended to scout the available wildcards prior to the event’s start and select one in place of Andy. As it happened, I got very busy and then sick myself, and ultimately the contest began with my not making an alternate selection there and leaving $2 million sitting on the table that could have been put to great use by either selecting a wildcard or upgrading one of the other surfers. There’s no certainty as to what that might have done for my event and overall scores, but leaving it the way it was certainly didn’t help.
Have fun in Indo, Johnny. The next round of fantasysurfer starts in 60 days and I intend to win it.
This is a really nice video tribute to 3x World Champion surfer, Andy Irons, who passed away on November 2nd of this year at the age of 32. Andy died alone in a Dallas hotel room, during a layover while en route from a professional surfing event that he had withdrawn from in Puerto Rico, to his home in Kauai, Hawaii. He reportedly had been battling with Dengue Fever, a viral disease that had left him too sick to travel further.
Like many others in the surf world, I was shocked and deeply saddened by this stunning loss. Andy was a first time father-to-be. His wife Lyndie has since given birth to their healthy son.
The qualities I admired most about Irons aside from his incredible surfing were his fierce competitiveness, raw energy and passionate personality. He wore his emotions clearly on his sleeve, so you always had a good idea about what he was feeling at any given moment, whether that was euphoria after a heat victory or anger and frustration following a defeat.
He was the only surfer to legitimately challenge the supremacy of Kelly Slater during his 15 year reign, winning three titles in row from him from 2002-2004. He did it with fearless surfing that was an exciting mix of power and finesse; that often seemed out-of-control, when it was anything but. He excelled in all types of surf and was equally adept above the lip and inside the largest pits.
There’s a great line in this video by former World Champ, Mark Occhilupo, who summarized Irons’ surfing style as, “like a cat on acid”. That’s incredibly accurate.
The end of the video is pretty powerful as several of Andy’s close friends and family (including his brother, Bruce), try to make sense of this tragedy and express what his loss means to them and the rest surfing world. Clearly, a lot more time is going to have to pass before anyone can really say, if ever.
R.I.P. Andy and prayers to your family and friends.
Safe to say, even if you don’t surf, you know who Kelly Slater is. He’s the world’s greatest surfer. King Kelly. A legendary 10x world champ who even at age 38, in a time when most progressive surfing is regularly performed above the wave, has somehow remained fit enough and good enough to routinely beat surfers years his junior, from all around the planet.
And now the greatest surfer in history wants to build the best wave in the world.
It’s an interesting prospect, only because it comes from someone whose understanding of the ocean and the sport are second only to his determination and will to succeed.
I remember seeing Kelly surf in person on a road trip to Sebastian Inlet back in my early twenties. Kelly was just 14 at the time and already getting national attention. He was there for the ESA Regional Championships. We just happened to arrive in time to catch the Superheat, where the winners of each division compete against each other in a final, decisive high-performance session to see who is the best of the best.
Kelly had already won his division and was surfing against several older, more experienced men. There was a northeaster blowing and the waves at Sebastian were large and sloppy, far from ideal conditions. But let me tell you, when Kelly dropped in, he made every wave look flawless. Not just good. Not just great… but jaw-dropping, “OMG, can you believe that?” otherworldy good. And everyone on the beach that day recognized it.
He surfed fast, fluid and stylish, blasting every sliver of open face, effortlessly connecting beautiful maneuvers while intuitively navigating every tricky section. It was clear, even back then, that he wasn’t just a natural. He was supernatural.
Today, as freakish as 10 world titles sounds, it doesn’t surprise me. He’s just that good. I consider myself fortunate to have been able to follow his career through my own lifetime, because I don’t expect his accomplishments will ever be matched. This is also the reason I won’t summarily dismiss his vision to build the world’s first natural, deep-water world-class wave.
According to a press release, the Kelly Slater Wave Company will use “pioneering wave generation and control technology to create the wave on the outside of a large circular pool, propogating onto an inner island where it breaks endlessly.” Slater suggests that the wave, inside a planned surf park with beaches, restaurants, bars, pools, conference facilities and retail will come close to reproducing the “natural”feeling of one of the world’s best waves.
A few years back, I had the opportunity to surf Disney’s Typhoon Lagoon with just a few friends after the park had closed for the day. The waves there seemed to start with 4’ peaks that quickly receded to 2’ lines that weren’t endless. While reasonably fun and consistent, between the stadium lights; eerie sounds of the hydromechanics; soft, punchless waves and chlorine smell, the experience was far from natural.
Even if Kelly’s engineers have devised a way to double the size and power of the waves, there are some things about surfing that simply can’t be duplicated by men, even supernatural ones.
The inconsistent nature of swells that makes chasing them so exciting, and an integral part of the surfing experience.
The unique characteristics of individual waves that allow us to enjoy a variety of experiences on each and every one we ride.
The subtle risks of dangers like shallow reefs, clean-up sets and sea creatures we can’t always see, that open our adrenal glands to their addictive flow.
The infinite beauty of God’s handiwork, which varies so dramatically from ocean to ocean, beach to beach, break to break, right down to the locals sitting next to us in the lineup.
Of course, I’m sure Kelly already understands all this better than most.
So, I won’t do the easy thing which would be to scoff at his vision; dismiss it as idealistic; unrealistic in this uncertain economy; or opportunistic at the expense of “surfers” from places like Indiana or Ohio, who only understand surfing through movies like Point Break; magazines like SURFER; and the big brand surf tees they buy in their local mega malls. They deserve to experience the thrill and joys of surfing as much as any of us.
Instead, I’ll lay money down that Kelly will leverage his incredible personal and financial resources; visionary imagination; and passion for surfing, including his unyielding desire to advance the sport and share it; to create something that will exceed all of our expectations. Something that will leave us standing slack-jawed, looking at the person next to us and saying, “OMG, can you believe that?”
To learn more about the Kelly Slater Wave Company, visit Slater’s YouTube Channel where he shares more of his vision in a series of videos.
Big wave surfing at Shipstern’s Bluff. I’ve traveled to a lot of places for waves, but have never made it to Australia or Tasmania, an Australian island and state, where this wave is located. It’s hard to believe people paddle out here and live to tell about it. It does look fun though, in a very sadistic sort of way.